So I was working with some interlace modes and noticed that some monitors would support an Interlaced display but not a Non-Interlace display on my Amiga 500.
The Dell P2213 will show an interlaced Amiga display but "black screen" on a non-interlaced display.
I think it has to do with the "380 line minimum" that I saw on some of the Dell monitors while working with cvt. Interlaced modes are > 380 and Non interlace is < 380.
I tried a Dell S2415Hb with an interlaced Amiga display and while it would display it, the Auto Adjustment would keep cycling to the point it would force the monitor to shut down and reboot. I guess that even monitors can "crash".
A Planar PXL2780MW will display interlace but blanks out on the non interlace. Turning its Overdrive setting down to zero makes it flicker less, but it still has noticeable jitter. (It will also generate some LCD afterimage that will go away after awhile)
An Asus VS197 will display 640x400 interlace with jitter (and looks blurry) but not regular 640x200.
A Dell S2240Mc will display interlace but it also has some jitter issues.
An Acer V246HQL will not lock onto 640x200 saying "Input not supported". However, if you switch to 640x400 interlace then turn the monitor on, it will lock on to 640x400 and then you can switch back to 640x200 and it will display properly until you change resolutions again. The 640x200 display looks nice if you can get it to show up, but that's way too fiddly, requiring you to turn the monitor off and back on.
A Dell U2713HMt will not work with 640x200 saying "input not supported", but it will work with a 640x400 interlace signal with visible flicker. The pixel clock and phase can be adjusted to remove banding.
Since monitors like these will "wink out" when they get a non interlace display, I'll hook up the b/w composite out from the Amiga 500 to a TV so I can see what's happening and try to switch into an interlaced mode.
I wish there were a way to force the Amiga to always generate an interlace mode to work with monitors that only like interlaced signals.
My personal list (Golden Child's List) of monitors that will sync to Amiga 500 NTSC 15khz signals with a buffered VGA adapter (purchased from ebay):
If it says clock=100 that means that the pixel clock can't be adjusted beyond 100 to get rid of vertical banding. (in other words, even when at the clock maximum value of 100, the pixel width isn't uniform all the way across the screen) Sadly, many monitors get really really close to removing all the banding, leaving just a few large bands.
With some monitors you must do an auto adjust before you try to adjust the pixel clock as it seems to affect the range of how much you can manually adjust.
Acer B226WL
Acer B227Q bmiprx (slightly blurry image unenhanced, the only sharpness adjustment is super-sharpness on/off, with super-sharpness on image is acceptable but still a little soft)
Acer B246HL
Acer R240HY
Acer S220HQL
Acer SB220Q bi (tested with 15khz tester only)
Acer SB230 Bbix (tested with 15khz tester only)
Acer G215HV Bbd (made 9/2012)
Acer G226HQL (panel has narrow viewing angle)
Acer G235H
Acer G245HQ Abd (tested with 15khz tester, auto adjust puts screen up halfway, can be adjusted with controls)
Acer G246HL Abd
Acer G276HL
Acer H226HQL bid (tested with 15khz tester)
Acer H276HL
Acer H233H bmid (from 2010, adjusting horizontal clock or activating auto adjust will make image unstable (horizontal jittering) until you either powercycle or cycle the monitor input from VGA to HDMI and back to VGA)
Acer K202HQL Abi (2020) (works with 15khz tester)
Acer K222HQL bd (2015) (works with 15khz tester)
Acer K243Y Hbi (Mar 2023) (works with 15khz tester)
Acer KA240H bd (2018) (works with 15khz tester)
Acer KA242Y Ebi (works with 15khz tester)
Acer KA272 bi (2020) (works with 15khz tester)
Acer V195WL bd (2014) (works with 15khz tester)
Acer V196HQL Ab (panel has narrow viewing angle)
Acer V196WL b (hpos=22,vpos=64,clock=94 perfect)
Acer V196L b (also V196L bd) (tested with 15khz tester) (5:4 aspect ratio screen)
Acer V203H Cjbd
Acer V206HQL (tested with 15khz tester)
Acer V226WL (tested with 15khz tester)
Acer V246HYL Cbi (tested with 15khz tester)
Acer VG240Y bmiix
Acer VG270 bmiix
Acer X203H bd (May 2009) auto adjust leaves screen halfway up, can adjust vpos to correct position)
Acer (Gateway KX2303, manufactured by Acer but branded Gateway, clk=100)
Asus VA24D (clk=100, sharp=100)
Asus VA24EHE Eye Care (clk=100, sharp=100)
Asus VE208N (clk=96 phase=36 pos=13h/53v)
Asus VE228
Asus VE248H (2017)
Asus VE248Q (works with 15khz tester)
Asus VG245H (works with 15khz tester)
Asus VH238H (mine made in Jan 2011) (clk=93 phase=90 pos=13h/53v) (warning: I have also found some Asus VH238H-P that does not work with a 15khz tester, so maybe not all Asus VH238 work.)
Asus VS248P (Asus VS248H-P) (scenery mode, sharpness=80, hpos=16, vpos=56, phase=84, clock=90, perfect image, ASCR off, with ASCR on the red sector intro on great giana sisters causes backlight to go out) (I have two units, Sep 2013 and June 2020)
Asus VS278Q (clock=93, phase=50, pos=12h/63v)
Asus VW246H (tested with 15khz tester only)
Asus PA248Q
Asus PA249Q ProArt (april 2013) (clock=92 for no banding) (Aspect is either full screen or 720x240 miniature 1:1 pixel)
Benq MP720p Projector
Benq RL2460-B / RL2460HT (works with 15khz tester)
Benq RL2755-B (OSD info says RL2755T) (clock=94, phase=40 for no banding. Has many, many options for aspect ratio and screen sizing from 1:1 720x240 pixels, 4:3 17" + 19", 5:4 19", 16:10 19" + 22", 16:9 23" + 24" )
Benq GL2450-B/RL2455HM (clock=93)
Dell 2001FP (tested with 15khz tester) (does not remember horizontal position, gets shifted to right and must use OSD controls every time monitor is turned on or signal changes/computer reboot, this can get annoying quickly. Changing input makes VGA colors funny, have to power cycle to reset. Interestingly, if I switch to an active DVI signal, then switch back to VGA the VGA colors will look right.)
Dell E170Sb (manufactured March 2012, 4:3 monitor, clk=92, phase=72, perfect)(REV A01) (found a REV A00 E170Sb that doesn't work)
Dell E2010H (wants to auto adjust on power on)
Dell P2210
Dell ST2210b
Dell ST2220Lc (tested with 15khz tester) (manufactured July 2012)
Dell ST2321Lf (tested with 15khz tester) (Feb 2011)
Dell ST2410b (wants to auto adjust upon Amiga boot/reset)
Dell ST2420Lb (tested with 15khz tester)
Dell ST2421Lb
Dell P2310
Dell U2410 (auto adjust works well, manually changing the phase/clock will make the screen will go wonky, cycle inputs to return to normal, zoom to 15 will fill the screen)
Dell U2311b (tested with 15khz tester)
Dell U2711 (tested with 15khz tester, but does not work right with real Amiga signal, non interlace 640x200 looks dark and unusable (some kind of automatic gain issue), oddly 640x400 interlace looks fine. To see anything in 640x200 you can set the color to YPbPr but colors are all wrong. Component also hates non-interlace. Interlace is properly deinterlaced on VGA, component and composite, but VGA deinterlace has a soft appearance). Dell U3011 has similar behavior, non interlace unusable, interlace is ok.
Dell U2212HMc (93 for pixel clock, 10 for hpos, 80 for vpos is perfect)
Dell U2312HM
Dell E2213Hb (note that the E2213c does not work with 15khz signals but the E2213Hb does work with 15khz signals)
Dell E2214Hb
Dell E2314Hf (tested with 15khz tester)
Dell P2214H
Dell P2314H
Dell E2414H
Dell P2414H
Dell P2714Hc
Dell E2015HVf (clock=100 can be auto adjusted with cvt 1080 246 61 and then switched to Amiga 500 clock=90)
Dell E2215HV (clock=100 max, can't get completely rid of banding, can adjust wide/4:3/5:4)
Dell SE2216HV (made July 2018) (tested with 15khz tester)
Dell SE2717H (clock=100)
Dell P2217
Dell P2018H (clock=100)
Dell S2316Mc (tested with 15khz tester) 12V 3.33a
Dell S2318Nc label also says (S2318HN/NX) (tested with 15khz tester)
Dell S2319Nx (tested with 15khz tester)
Dell P2219H (clock=100)
Dell P2419H (tested with 15khz tester)
Dell P2222H (clock=100)
Dell 1220
Projector
Dell 2300MP Projector (tested with 15khz tester)
Epson EX3220 Projector
Epson VS340 Projector
Epson MovieMate 30s Projector (852x480 native)
Hitachi CP-WX4021N Projector
Hitachi CP-X251 Projector (tested with 15khz tester)
HP Elitedisplay E231i (this is the one with the IPS panel, the EliteDisplay E231 doesn't work)
HP 27wm (clk=100, pos=13/53 image a little soft, no sharpening options)
Infocus IN2114 Projector (A500 NTSC VGA non interlace looks good, interlace will sometimes do wrong line deinterlacing - if you keep hitting the auto adjust button a few times it will eventually lock in properly and interlace will look good)
Infocus IN24+ W240 Projector (tested with 15khz tester)
Infocus ScreenPlay 4805 Projector (works with non interlace on M1-DA interface with VGA/USB cable, but interlace is scrambled and unusable)
Lenovo T2254pC (tested with 15khz tester only) (made 2016)
Lenovo T2324pA (tested with 15khz tester only)
Lenovo LT1913pA (5:4 IPS screen) (made 2015)
Lenovo LT1952pwD (tested with 15khz tester only)
Lenovo LT2252p wide (switching from interlace to
non interlace can cause screen to go blank, either reset Amiga or use Dpaint 3 to change resolution to bring it back, recommend non interlace
only)
Lenovo LT2323p wide (tested with 15khz tester only)
Lenovo Thinkvision S22e-20 (tested with 15khz tester only)
NEC Accusync AS221WM (tested with 15khz tester only)
NEC LCD225WXM (july 2007) (tested with 15khz tester)
NEC Multisync E222W (tested with 15khz tester)
NEC Multisync EA241WM (detects a500 NTSC as 640x200 (completely fills screen to edges) when in non-interlace and displays as 720x480 when in 640x400 interlace (displays inset from edges)) Since image completely fills screen, can get annoying to reposition screen when it diverges from the "normal" position.
NEC Multisync EA261WM (640x200 fills screen like EA241WM, virtually identical behavior to EA241WM but 26 inches across, very heavy 27 lbs)
NEC MultiSync EA273WM (tested with 15khz tester, works with Amiga signals. To get rid of banding the image will fill the screen horiz from edge to edge, and letterboxed.)
NEC VT570 Projector
Optoma EP749 Projector (640x400 interlace displays purple, non interlace is fine)
Planar PLL2010W (tested with 15khz tester, positioning/size is on the left half of the screen but it will show a signal)
Planar PLL2210W (hsize=76, finetune=100 for no banding pos=13/63, interlace is normal size, however switching from 640x200 to interlace makes the monitor say "out of range", power cycling with the power switch will then display an interlace screen)
Planar PLL2410W (non interlace mode ok, interlace modes are double width so right half is off screen)
Philips 17PF8946/37 17" LCD TV
Sceptre E248W-19208DA8524AA (there are many similar E248W model numbers that don't work so be advised. This unit has a standard AC power plug, not requiring an AC adapter.)
Sceptre E275W
Seiki SE22HY01 Television
STG BNLCD001 22" Monitor Panel (2022/11/23)
Viewsonic VA2246mh-LED (note that this is a different model than the VA2246m-LED which doesn't work)
Viewsonic VA2259-smh
Viewsonic VA2359-SMH (2019) (tested with 15khz tester only)
Viewsonic VA2452SM-2 (2020) (tested with 15khz tester only)
Viewsonic VA2446MH-LED (tested with 15khz tester only)
Viewsonic VA2703-LED (auto adjust puts vertical screen position halfway up, but position/size can be manually adjusted)
Viewsonic VA2746mh-LED (tested with 15khz tester only)
Viewsonic VG2239m-LED (auto adjust puts vertical screen position halfway up, but position/size can be manually adjusted)
Viewsonic VG2748
Viewsonic VG2753
Viewsonic VP2770-LED
Viewsonic VX2252MH (2014-7-12) (perfect with hpos=17 vpos=57 hsize=94 finetune=75 sharpness=100 almost identical settings to VX2452MH)
Viewsonic VX2452MH (2020-06) (perfect with hpos=13 vpos=58 hsize=94 finetune=50 sharpness=100)
Viewsonic VX2703mh-LED
Viewsonic VX2276-SMHD
Viewsonic TD2220 touch display (tested with 15khz tester, works fine with PAL Amiga 15khz)
Zalman Trimon MZ240ED (when switching from interlace to non-interlace this monitor has issues. With Great Giana Sisters after the interlaced Giana Picture, monitor goes blank and doesn't come back until rebooting the Amiga.) (Use only with non-interlace if possible).
One thing I've noticed is that a lot of the monitors do "wrong line" interlace display on Amiga signals. Typical interlace will either jitter or will blur lines together. The Seiki SE22HY01 Television does proper deinterlacing that looks good. Also the Dell U2410 will do a proper job with interlace.
It appears that many dell monitors have a SSYY pattern where SS is the diagonal size and YY is the year, and the years 2010 and 2014 were very good years as 2010 had the U2410, P2210, P2310, ST2210b and 2014 had the E2214, P2214, P2314, E2414, P2414. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dell_monitors
My favorite 4 brands are Acer, Asus, Dell and Viewsonic because those are the brands that I have found that have the monitors most likely to show 15khz signals. The Dells often can adjust the aspect from 4:3 to wide. Also I like monitors that will do sharpening on the image, especially on larger monitors.
Benq doesn't have as many monitors on my list, but they are nice in that they have very flexible options for aspect ratio as well as sharpening.
After purchasing and finding many monitors that don't work, a 15khz tester from pcbjunkiedotnet (http://pcbjunkie.net) has helped find monitors that will actually work with a 15khz signal. Search google for "15khz tester" or ebay for "vga monitor tester".
And also, your mileage may vary. Many monitors have variations: they could have different hardware revisions, could have different firmware and could have different manufacturing factories.
I saw this RGBS/VGA to YPbPr adapter on ebay for around $30 and thought I'd try it out. I already had a buffered VGA adapter (bought off ebay also) so I hooked it up with
Amiga --> buffered VGA --> RGBS to YPrPb --> component output --> TV
At first, I thought it didn't work because the first TV I tried didn't support the component signals. I got a black screen.
But I kept trying different TVs and about half of them would work, and when it worked, the output was absolutely beautiful. The TV deinterlacing was often perfect so you could use interlaced modes without any jitter.
So I would recommend to keep trying different TVs until you find one that looks good. It's really a crapshoot, you never know if it will work unless you try it.
Another thing is that some TVs can work with plugging the Y component output into the composite video in. You will get a picture, but it will be black and white with color fringing, so if you also turn down the color, it should be all grey shades.
Also take note that the Green (Y) output is in between the red and the blue on the converter. Most TVs have it in YPbPr order (green blue red) so you'll have to make sure it's plugged in correctly.
WARNING:
edit: A warning about the SCART input on the converter. I bought an Amiga to SCART cable and connected it to the converter and it seems to have killed it.
It illuminated the power led brighter than normal when I plugged it in. I didn't get an image out with the SCART and now I don't get any component video out while using the VGA input.
So be careful if you use the SCART input on this converter. I'm going to buy another unit to replace it and use it exclusively with the VGA input.
Some TVs will output a purple screen:
An insignia TV looked really dark and blurry.
Sansui SLED2900 was perfect:
(similar performance with the Sansui SLED2280a)
A Vizio D40F-G9 was perfect:
A Vizio M320SL was perfect:
An RCA 22LB45RQ was very very nice:
A Vizio D24F-f1 that has a component input via a 3.5mm plug:
A Toshiba 40L310U that looks great in non interlace, but interlace modes are jittery and choose the wrong line which makes text unreadable:
Gateway FPD2185W component input looks good:
The same Gateway FPD2185W on the VGA input does something strange with the colors:
A Dell 2408WFP on the component input (Amiga 500 VGA input was unsupported)
A Dell 2407WFP has very similar performance as the 2408WFP on the component input.
Magnavox 32" TV (youtube video)
Also the Sony KDL-32EX400 looks great on component input.
A Samsung UN46ES6150 looks good on component input with non-interlace. Interlace jitters about 2x-4x more than normal as it is very unstable vertically. Interestingly, if I connect the composite to the AV input, the UN46ES6150 will do proper deinterlacing, completely solid.
Viewsonic VT2300LED looks great, both 640x200 and 640x400 interlace are nice, screen blanks for a second while switching from non-interlace to interlace but other than that, perfect.
Also, you can take the YPbPr output and use a CELabs AV901COMP or AV901HD splitter/distribution amplifier to send the YPbPr component and audio output to multiple (9) televisions simultaneously. I've tried this with an AV901COMP and Amiga 500 NTSC signals and it looks pretty good.